Fashion Vintage

10 Tips To Tell If A Vintage Louis Vuitton Bag Is Fake

,Love vintage bags? Here’s how to tell if your vintage Louis Vuitton bag is fake

By Chiara Spagnoli Gabardi

If someone were to ask you to think of a fashion logo, what would come to mind? Very likely: the LV of Louis Vuitton. Indeed, this bag brand has remained popular for centuries. The French luxury company has been selling trunks and leather goods since 1854, and has gradually expanded into to ready-to-wear clothing, shoes, watches, jewellery, sunglasses and even books. But the label’s most popular product is undoubtedly handbags, and the rarer, the better.

However, collectors of vintage Vuitton should remain alert: there are plenty of fakes out there.

If you’re purchasing a bag online, for pre owned Louis Vuitton, you can trust certain vintage designer goods sites such as Vestiaire Collective, The Hut, or FarFetch, as they authenticate all items before listing them. Otherwise, you should request as many photographs as possible to check specific areas of the bag, such as the back, front, lining, date code, monogram, and the embossed “Louis Vuitton Made in …” stamp.

Demanding the details of where the bag was purchased can help you verify if it came from one of the 460 shops in the 50 countries where LV is present. The receipt might not be a guarantee, since if the bag can be copied, so can the receipt. Or sometimes, a real receipt can accompany a fake fashion accessory.

After selecting the LV style that’s perfect for you, use these 10 tips to tell if your vintage Louis Vuitton bag is fake – they will definitely help you sort the quality from the crap.

10 Tips To Tell If Your Vintage Louis Vuitton Bag Is Fake

1. Louis Vuitton Logo

The distinctive LV logo was created more than a century ago to try to combat the production of counterfeits (which were a problem, even way back then!). There is never any tilting of the logo, smudging or blurred edges; nor will the monogram ever be crossed with stitches, folds or locks.

All Louis Vuitton vintage bags (except for some very old ones) have the LV monogram on the leather canvas, which is symmetrical from side to side. It can be upside down, but only in some cases, such as the Speedy model. In that case, you should note that there’s one continuous piece of leather that wraps from the front to the backside, making the LV monogram appear upside down.

This means an original Louis Vuitton Speedy bag should have upside down LV monogram on the backside and no seam at the bottom. Don’t ever trust bags that have two pieces of leather stitched together.

2. Provenance

When you check the provenance of the bag, don’t fret if you see ‘Made in USA’ or another country that isn’t France: LV has produced bags that are made in Spain, USA, Italy, and Germany. Many are actually Made in China today.

3. Leather & Handles

The leather you’ll find used for vintage Louis Vuitton bags is a bit darker than the contemporary ones. Some genuinely authentic bags are also made using coated canvas – the trim, however, is leather. Feel it: the leather trim should be dry. If the touch gives you an oily or slippery sensation, you might be dealing with a fake.

Moreover, LV bags don’t come with trims wrapped with tissue, polyethene or soft paper – only the forged ones have those coverings this this to make sure the material doesn’t erode or fade away and the stitches don’t come off. Another giveaway is the shade of the handles: light leather handles tend to darken on the inside areas. If your vintage bag’s light handles are still light inside, it’s a probably a fake. A bit of wear indicates a real leather handle.

4. Lining & Stitching

Original Louis Vuitton linings are never, ever, dark brown. They range in the nuances from grey to alcantara. Original vintage bags won’t have suede linings, although there are sometimes cotton ones, depending on the model. Damier Ebiene Canvas bags are historically lined in red microfiber. If you’re considering a specific bag, do your research, as each one has a different, distinctive lining. Pay special attention to details that counterfeiters often overlook, such as checking whether a particular lining was actually used in the year a bag was produced.

Stitching is a job that LV performs to perfection, that means that all stitches will be perfectly straight and even. The number of stitches will not change. For example, on authentic Louis Vuitton Alma, Speedy and Neverfull bags there will be exactly five stitches across each of the tabs where the handles are secured – no more, no less. There should be no back-and-forth or zigzag stitching, and if there is, you are being scammed into a mediocre copy of a real Louis Vuitton bag.

5. Zipper & Hardware

Older Louis Vuitton vintage bags should have Talon or Eclair zipper pulls, not the LV pulls that are used today. Hardware in general on a real Louis Vuitton never looks thrifty or cheap. If it’s defective – or even worse, made out of plastic – the bag is, without shadow of a doubt, a fake. Don’t forget to check the LV logo stamp on the zipper pull: it should have a sharp and clear appearance. Most importantly, Louis Vuitton’s hardware is usually in brass, golden brass or silvery metal hues (with some exceptions that have matte finishings).  

6. Date Codes

The date code can determine the authenticity of your vintage bag. But bear in mind that not all handbags with date codes are authentic, and not all handbags without the code are fake. Most genuine Louis Vuitton bags should have a Date Code and a Serial Number, but not a model number.

The date code is composed of 6 characters: starting from the left, the first 2 characters are letters and the rest of the 4 characters are numbers. Louis Vuitton bags from the early 80s had three or four digits only; those made in the late 80s had 3-4 digits followed by two letters. Some vintage handbags have one letter followed by 5 digits.

Since the 90s, the date codes consisted of two letters followed by four numbers. The first two letters tell you the country where it is made and the numbers tell you the month and year it was manufactured. Since January 2007, Louis Vuitton has adopted another serial number reading system: instead of first and third digit being the month, it now means the week of the year the bag was made.

7. Stamp & Font

One of the most notable details in the Louis Vuitton stamp is the font it uses. It has a perfectly round and wide O, in Vuitton. The L has an especially short tail and the two Ts in Vuitton almost touch. The letter of the country in which the bag was made should be a capital letter.

tips to tell if your vintage louis vuitton bag is fake

8. Tags and cards

If your vintage bag has the original tags, make sure they come in a pair and that they are either ivory white with dark brown letter and black barcode. They are never yellow, nor do they have a plastic, round LV white tag the fakes sometimes have. One tag will say “Louis Vuitton” and the material it is made of. The other tag will have the model number, the correct French name of the bag, and the barcode.

9. The Dust Bag

Vintage bags most certainly will come in a 100% cotton flannel bag (up until 2004), with neatly finished seams. The LV embossed on it is very small and dark. If there is a hint of red, text or other squiggles – it’s forged.

10. Price

This is also a giveaway if the bag seems too much of a bargain. No Louis Vuitton comes cheap! Nor do the original boutiques of the French brand have sales, discounts or wholesale distributions. The cost of Louis Vuitton items is constant all year around, which is a reflection of their strong market value. In fact, you may well find that some rare LV vintage bags are more expensive than new ones.

Do you have any questions or comments? Or maybe other tips not mentioned here on how to tell if your vintage louis vuitton bag is fake? Leave them in the discussion section, below!

Images: 2nd: poshmark 4th:

Chiara Spagnoli Gabardi

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  • Reply
    Robin Lippin
    Aug 18, 2018 at 8:46 am

    I have a vintage (prob from the 70s) travel/passport/credit card envelope shaped one. The inside is the same as the outside with the embossed LV design, same material. On the inside of the change purse, it have the rounded o’s, the t’s almost touching but the bottom of the L doesn’t look as short as some of the authentic ones. The F in France is not capitalized. The zipper only says eclair on both sides. I haven’t seen this model so far. It zips all around with a leather handle on top, for easy carrying and it’s flat. There is no other markings, except on the inside of the change purse. When you hold it with the handle, the LVs lay horizontally, not upside down or rightside up. Can this be real? Thank you so much in advance!!

    • Reply
      Aug 19, 2018 at 3:45 am

      Hi there! It’s hard to say without seeing a pic. I’d recommend bring it to your nearest LV shop and asking them – either it’s a fake, or a rare gem!

  • Reply
    Marlyn Angsuco
    Aug 15, 2018 at 3:31 am

    My mother gave me lv chantilly she bought from a friend last 1985 and now she gave it to me as i can see it’s fake? is it possible at that time have a fake lv?

    • Reply
      Aug 16, 2018 at 3:06 am

      I’m not sure about that, but it’s less likely to be a fake as the boom for counterfeits really took off from around the 90’s. You can probably rest easy! 😉

      • Reply
        Oct 14, 2019 at 11:20 pm

        Mrs.Chere I have a Louis Vuitton and the code is GI 5106.Someone bought this bag for my b-day and not sure if it’s real.

        • Reply
          Oct 15, 2019 at 6:59 pm

          Hi Ann! I recommend taking it to your local Louis Vuitton outlet to ask them there, as it’s hard to tell online. Good luck!

      • Reply
        Pablito Reyes
        Jun 20, 2020 at 8:26 pm

        Hi I bought my wife a speedy 30,10 years ago, she’s thinking that it wa fake, because it didn’t came with a box and it’s made in USA, and the stitches inside is not as clean as it should be , and didn’t came with authenticity card, but has a number inside which is SD1190.

        • Reply
          Josephine Occena
          Jul 18, 2020 at 1:13 am

          LV doesnt come with authenticity card

  • Reply
    May 3, 2018 at 5:45 am

    I have a question how do i know if its real . The code is Fl2116 ??

  • Reply
    Willie fung
    Apr 8, 2018 at 12:03 pm

    Im ahaving trouble identifying my bag as well as the date stanp is vi 882 . Also i seems so old many thing looks different then my other lv product.

  • Reply
    Candy Tankersley
    Mar 19, 2018 at 2:47 am

    I have a Louis Vuitton bag it doesn’t have any numbers or letters it has all the right hardware but I’m not sure if it’s a real or fake how can I have it looked at to find out?

    • Reply
      Mar 19, 2018 at 4:03 am

      Where are you based, Candy?

      • Reply
        Sep 20, 2019 at 3:02 am

        J ai acheter un sac speedy Louis vitton avec des chiffres comme code

      • Reply
        Jul 27, 2020 at 6:09 am

        Hello I have a louis vuttion bag and I was just wondering if it real or fake in the inside it has the M5331 and just want to know thank you and hope you can help.

      • Reply
        Veronica Espudo
        Sep 4, 2020 at 4:44 am

        I think I have a vintage bag it doesn’t have any number at all just the name stamped in leather

    • Reply
      Jan 19, 2020 at 10:31 am

      I have a noe noe bag but have receipt but only has numbers inside 2018

    • Reply
      Mirasol Julian
      May 14, 2020 at 6:17 pm

      we have the same prob

    • Reply
      Melissa Olson
      Jun 24, 2020 at 1:25 am

      I have a LV bag it had a gold lock clasp which you press and it unlocks, its black leather, has kind of a plastic material on the front with the monogram pattern and there’s no code or serial number anywhere on the bag please help me identify this bag

      • Reply
        Dec 24, 2020 at 4:48 am

        Hi i have a LV bag that my mother gave me 40 years ago as a gift from her trip in france. I was young and only wore it twice. I realised it might not be fake. She bought it as a gift i had no idea until i pulled it out now and noticed the writing in the bag as per attached. Its not your traditional LV bag. But was wondering if i attach photo could you let me know. Very much appreciate your time. Thank you . The colour is mauve. How can i attach the photo or send you a pic via email.

    • Reply
      Patricia scott
      Feb 27, 2021 at 2:15 am

      My louis vuitton handbag doesn’t have a code nor is the zippers made like the ones on the picture I saw mine has leather peices on the zipper part

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