By Diane Small
Ana-Katarina Vinkler Petrovic is a sentimental woman. The idea of having to sell a loved one’s jewellery–infused with memories of that special person– or not wearing pieces rich in personal meaning but outdated in style seems very sad to the sustainably minded jeweller. As a practical solution, she encourages men and women alike to break down unused pieces into new pieces that are even more deeply meaningful and personal to them.
For Petrovic, jewellery is much, much more than a mere accessory–it’s a reflection of style, a holder of the past. “Perfect design whispers a woman’s narrative,” she states.
To illustrate what she means by this, and to show how new life can be breathed into vintage gems, Ana-Katarina gives some recent examples of of the stories behind her work.
Although she doesn’t advocate using new coral for jewellery as the harvesting of coral destroys coral reefs, these pieces, called Pele’s Blossoms, were created for a client who had a plethora of old coral roses from a necklace that fell apart. As the Buddhist philosophy states: it is more respectful to honour a the body of a living being once it’s gone through its continued use rather than discarding it, and Petrovic believes that for this reason, old, vintage items from the Earth’s creatures that we would never buy new–think fur, coral and ivory–should be used forever.
To enhance the color of the coral roses, Petrovic used rose gold and cognac diamonds. The ajure back was inspired by the Art Deco era, which made her think of “a beautiful woman who is urban chic; elegant and simple with a panache for detailed and statement luxury accessories. The broken coral roses were redesigned into 5 pieces: 3 brooches, a ring and earrings,” she says.
These were created for a young woman who prefers to wear custom jewelry and is the fifth piece Ana-Katarina has created for her in two years. Ana-Katarina wanted to adorn this young woman with romance, elegance and a bit of whimsy. Josephine’s Garden earrings, named after the famed Empress, evokes these three elements in ethically sourced 18k yellow drops with white gold with diamonds, demonstrating that whimsy and romance are eternal!
These sassy hoops were upcycled from a new mother’s old jewellery. This woman wanted to create elegant earrings she could wear every day and AnaKatarina wanted to reflect the client’s urban, bohemian character. Ain’t Misbehaving is the end result of this process: oval hoops made from Fair Trade rose and black gold, and set with ethically sourced cognac and white diamonds. The subtle gold and diamond hues created simple, grown-up chic.
Once Upon a Summertime
These are were not made for a particular client, but are rather from the AnaKatarina Eco Gioielli Ligne collection. Created by Ana- Katarina to invoke Art Deco, which happens to be one of her favourite design periods, Petrovic says these remind her of “elegant summer parties, upswept hair, long gowns and romance”. For us, these are reminiscent of Gatsby’s love for Daisy, and the summer parties he would throw to catch her attention. Petrovic agrees, stating “ah, yes! I always believe love. It’s the simplest way to make a woman more beautiful.” And if you can’t find love, well…there’s always jewellery!
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