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By Chantal Brocca
Paris Couture Week Gets Colourful!
In an unusual take for autumn, couture runways were alive with splashes of bright monocolour pieces and deep, gem-like hues. And when it wasn’t exceptionally colourful, the absence of it was striking – or at least noteworthy.
Armani Prive played on this beautifully while all the while staying true to his DNA, lifting bright pink to a starring role and relegated the remaining spectrum to an adorning role in foamy shades to spice up a sea of sculpted, tailored and pleated blacks.
Designers juggled primaries in lavish shades between toned-down pieces in easy to wear nudes, ivories and black. Valentino’s glam pink and blue maxi dresses detailed a rainbow of elegance in ruffles and lace. Emerald green coats were worn over flowy, slouchy tailored trousers that are just that tiny bit too long.
Keeping in with the theme of bright colour, Viktor & Rolf’s puffy super pleated bombers with bursts of bright orange hid a mosaic of denim patchwork beneath, while regal deep winter reds and blues made up Elie Saab‘s array of Game of Thrones medieval queens, sprinkled in heavily amongst his favorite pastel tones.
Georges Hobeika – a long time lover of using brighter tones on his couture catwalk – stayed true to his brand’s DNA with an array of indigo blues and ruby reds. But what was most striking about this collection were the cuts – cobra hoods and off-shoulder gypsy blouses stood out, as did elaborately beaded floral motifs.
Yet, not all of the big houses embraced the rainbow – Dior and Chanel sang classic fall tunes of grey and mud hues folded into masterpieces of construction, which, while grand, were falling more often than not into definitions more attuned to the RTW runway.
Among the misty flounces and intricately beaded hems of evening gowns, couture daywear made its presence hard to miss this haute couture season, perhaps spurred on by the enduring popularity of luxury leisure wear, perhaps a calculated turn towards a consumer taste that is increasingly casual, relaxed, and imposing – or perhaps a combination of both, since in fashion, nothing is ever random.
Between collection hybrids, jewelry presentations, a bombardment of off-schedule shows (like that of Francesco Scognamiglio, above) and a colour palette that spanned the entire spectrum, this Paris Couture Week was perhaps one of the most inclusive, featuring an all international buffet that served a little something for everyone – a nod to the 30s from Dior and Chanel (possibly a reference to a looming economic depression?), luxe puffa jackets shown on several runways; chin-strap hats and an Indian themed bride (main pic), co-designed by Sonam Kapoor for Ralph & Russo…it really felt like anything was possible this season.
That traditional lines are blurring everywhere is a massive understatement, but in this instance, I guess a good question to ask ourselves is: are we seeing hints of initial efforts to reposition definitions of haute couture? Perhaps. If recent shifts in the industry are any indication, it’s going to get hella interesting. Stay tuned.
All images via Vogue.com