Articles Magazine

7 More Brands You Think are Eco Friendly, But Aren’t

moroccanoil2

By Chere Di Boscio

Recently, Dr Bronner’s exposed the truth about ‘fake’ organic brands–that is to say, brands that claimed to be organic based on their ingredients, packaging and marketing, but which actually either a) carried only a few organic ingredients mixed with highly chemical ones or b) actually had no organic ingredients at all.

This kind of ‘greenwashing’ is more common than you think, and here at Eluxe we’re getting rather tired of correcting brands telling us they’re ‘eco friendly’ when actually they’re anything but.

We’ve already unveiled 5 other brands notorious for their greenwashing, but after a quick survey of staff, friends and family, we’ve found five more brands to add to that list.

Some results you may have suspected, while others may shock you. Buyer beware!

1. Kiehl’s

Of those brands you think are eco friendly, Kiehl’s ranks high. Its ‘old worlde’ packaging, claims of purity and even organic ingredients all mislead customers into thinking the products it peddles are natural. In fact, this is far from the reality–almost all of Kiehl’s creams, serums and potions is chock-full of nasties.

Take Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream for example. At the top of its ingredients list is phenoxyethanol, a preservative that is a skin irritant and a neurotoxin. Not a good start. Moving down the list, we find two parabens, associated with cancer; chlorphenesin, a neurotoxin that is restricted in Japan; disodium EDTA, a harsh chemical which enhances the penetration of other ingredients; triethanolamine, which was proven in animal studies to cause sense organ problems, even at very low doses, and sodium hydroxide, which has been shown to destroy healthy skin cels within one hour.

Given this long list of potentially harmful chemicals, Kiehl’s claims that the cream’s use of an all-natural Australian desert plant with superb water retention properties seems rather meaningless by comparison, no? Oh, and guess what–according to PETA, they also test on animals!

kiehls-since-1851

2. Melissa

The Brazilian shoe company co-designs with big names, including Karl Lagerfeld and notably Vivienne Westwood. Until fairly recently, Melissa branded itself as an ‘eco-friendly’ company because it uses ‘vegan leather‘ comprised of recycled PVC for most of its shoe designs.

According to Inhabitat, the shoes are made from MELFLEX plastic, a flexible form of PCV. They claim Melissa shoes are “totally cruelty free and devoid of animal products”, and go on to mention that “the Brazilian-based company is totally rad in its recycling of 99.9% of factory water and waste, and they also go the distance by recycling overstock styles into next season’s collection. Even better? Melissa Shoes employees are paid above average wages and benefits. What’s not to like in these plastic fantastic accessories?”

Well, quite a lot, actually.

Research shows that heavily toxic and dangerously carcinogenic PVC is never safe, especially for children, and recycling it actually releases more toxins from this carcinogenic material into the atmosphere.

On their website, Melissa list several countries that have online shops where you can buy their shoes, but there are some notable exceptions: most of the EU. Perhaps this is because PVC is banned in most EU countries? For example, Sweden has been working on discontinuing all PVC uses since 1995, and in Spain, over 60 cities have been declared PVC-free. Germany has banned the disposal of PVC in landfills as of 2005, is minimising the incineration of PVC, and is encouraging a full phase out of all PVC products.

Melissa used to have all their social and environmental ‘credentials’ listed on their site. No longer. No wonder.

waf-estrelicia

3. Origins

This brand, owned by cosmetics giant Estee Lauder corporation, claims their production processes involve some forms of natural energy and renewable resources, and that their skincare is formulated with organic and natural ingredients, which is true–some of the ingredients are.

However, almost all Origins products we checked contain potent chemicals that are known irritants and have no established benefit for skin; what was especially worrying is that the skin creams with sun care protection also contained highly irritating ingredients, some of which are phototoxic.

Moreover, for ‘natural’ products, there are certainly a LOT of chemicals, though the brand claims these are not ‘harsh’, whatever that means. For example, these are just some of the chemicals listed on the ingredients list for A Perfect World SPF 25 Age Defense Moisturiser:

Octisalate, Avobenzone, Octocrylene,  Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Methyl Trimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate , Glyceryl Stearate, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate , Oryzanol, Ergothioneine, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Linoleic Acid, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Dehydroxanthan Gum, Silica, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol

In particular, Octocrylene, which is one of the top 3 ingredients in this particular product, can be absorbed into the skin, and studies have shown that it could promote the generation of harmful free radicals when exposed to light. As free radicals can damage DNA, there is concern that this ingredient might have actually contributed to a rise in cases melanoma in sunscreen-users compared to non-users. However, researchers say further studies are needed to determine the true health impact of this ingredient.

Most worrying of all is the listing of Squalane, which is often derived from sharks. This can come in plant form too, but Origins makes no clarification of that, thus meaning that the product may actually not be cruelty-free.

So for those who are vegan or who just care about animal rights, even though Origins says they contain no animal ingredients, you should question the ‘origins’ of the brand’s Squalane, and more importantly–know that parent company Estee Lauder still tests on animals in China, and that includes doing animal testing of the Origins range if it’s sold in China. As an added bonus, the company’s CEO, Ron Lauder, supports  right-wing Israeli extremists with funds generated from the group’s cosmetics–hardly ethical.

image.php

4. Nespresso

We were shocked to see this brand, owned by the notorious Nestle, at Sustainable Luxury 1.618. I personally asked what on earth this company was doing at a sustainability show, and was basically told that because they have a recycling program for their coffee pods, the brand is ‘green’. Ha! Quite a claim from a company that makes a product that is, by its very nature, hardly eco-friendly. While their coffee may be quick to make, let’s not forget that for centuries, no electricity has been necessary to make a good brew: hot water and a coffee press were enough.

Even the scoop espresso makers, so popular in Italian coffee bars over generations and still the main way to make coffee in many proper cafes today, only require loose coffee and a metallic scoop. Nothing disposable here, and what’s more: the grounds can be used to fertilise acid-loving plants, like gardenias, for example.

In Britain alone, almost 200m–yes, that’s right, 200 million– coffee capsules were used last year, and almost all ended up in landfill. Why? Because it’s a hassle to recycle them. Sure, Nespresso will collect its aluminium pods for recycling – but only when you order more from its website. Otherwise you can recycle at its UK stores – a long trip if you don’t live in London, Birmingham or Manchester, and hardly convenient even if you do.

It’s hard to take Nespresso’s claims to sustainability seriously when its parent company has one of the worst ecological track records in history and is currently destroying Indonesian rainforests to harvest palm oil for its chocolate and other products.  But the entire concept behind Nespresso’s coffee pods, now being pushed by the company into restaurants around the world, is dubious–I mean, given that espresso has been made for a century without pods at all, wouldn’t it be better for the planet if these completely unnecessary pods didn’t exist in the first place?

nespresso_capsules

5. Aveda

Yet another brand in the Hall of Shame that’s under the Estee Lauder umbrella (although it ‘operates independently’) is the hair care label, Aveda.

Aveda’s business practices are definitely more eco-friendly than most: it was the first beauty company to use 100% post-consumer recycled PET packaging; it manufactures with 100% certified wind power, and has signed up to the CERES Principles, a 10-point code of corporate environmental conduct created in 1989.

However, most people buy the brand’s products believing they are ‘organic’ or ‘pure’–but the reality is often not quite that.

While there are indeed some natural ingredients many items in the Aveda range, others are as chemically nasty as anything on a cheap drugstore shelf. For example, their Aveda Control Paste Finishing Paste, carries high health concerns for allergies and immunotoxicity, endocrine disruption, and occupational hazards, among other issues. A quick look at the ingredients list confirms that this is one product to avoid:

Aqueous (Water, Aqua Purificata, Purified) Extracts: Althaea Officinalis (Marshmallow) (Organically Grown), Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Organically Grown), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, (Coconut), PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Tribehenin, (Rapeseed), Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, (Coconut), Glycerin, (Coconut), Cetearyl Alcohol (Coconut), Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (Palm), Fragrance (Parfum), Citral, Geraniol, Linalool, Farnesol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Eugenol, Limonene, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Methylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Annatto (Cl 75120), Mica, Titanium Dioxide (Cl 77891).

Moreover, their rapeseed oil is very likely from GMO sources (as almost all rapeseed oil is today, unless specified as organic) and much of the abundant palm oil that’s present in many of the brand’s products is sourced from Indonesian rainforests, meaning not only are ancient trees being cut down to fulfil demand for palm oil there, but many species of animal, most notably the orangutan, are being displaced.

As part of the Estee Lauder family, a portion of Aveda’s profits go to the owners of the group. In 1993, Ron Lauder co-founded a think tank called the Shalem Center in Jerusalem. The Israeli Education Ministry has described the center as “a research institute whose leanings are extreme right-wing and even fascistic.” Much of the focus of this Estee Lauder-funded group perpetuates war in the Middle East.

The bottom line? This is one brand whose ingredients are often far from sustainable, despite what they claim.

aveda_mission

6. Aveeno

I know several people with skin allergies and eczema who have turned to this brand to solve their maladies, with little success. And no surprises: despite Aveeno’s claims that their Active Naturals carry ingredients “derived from nature and uniquely formulated by Aveeno to deliver real skin results”, more often than not, these ‘natural’ ingredients are just part of a chemical mix.

Let’s look at their Daily Scrub, for example.

The product contains a long list of ingredients, but those that I personally would consider dubious include: Sodium laureth sulfate, polyethylene, lauryl glucoside, PEG-16 soy sterol, carbomer, phenoxyethanol, glycol distearate, cocamidopropyl betaine, methylparaben, butylene glycol, fragrance, laureth-4, sodium hydroxide, and tetrasodium EDTA.

Cure skin allergies? Despite their neutral beige packaging and promises to deliver all the goodness of nature, Aveeno’s products are more likely to cause them.

 AVEENO-POSITIVELY-NOURISHING-Moisturizer-GROUP-SHOT

7. MoroccanOil

It sells itself as an Argan oil based product that restores hair and skin through the power of nature. Its website uses interviews with women involved in social volunteering, renewable energy and animal rights. But all of this is planned campaigning directly aimed at greenwashing the fact that the product itself has links to an oppressive, exploitative regime. Yes, that’s right–MoroccanOil isn’t Moroccan at all–it’s actually an Israeli company.

But appropriating Moroccan culture isn’t the only unethical thing this brand does. Whilst Argan oil has been used by Arabian women for centuries because it’s wonderful for both the skin and hair, MoroccanOil contains a teeny, tiny, weeny percentage of pure Argan oil–in some products, it’s as low as 4%–and the other, say 96% is pretty much water and nasty chemicals. But of course MoroccanOil’s  prices don’t reflect this.

In short, there’s just no justification for buying anything from this product line. You’d be better off buying pure Argan oil products created by the likes of Kari Gran, Sprekenhus or Josie Maran instead.

moroccanoil2

Image: Lindsey Garrett/Flickr



You Might Also Like

18 Comments

  • Reply
    Maureen
    May 14, 2014 at 8:10 pm

    Aveda has been produced without parabens since 2010 so this must be a really old container of Control Paste! Please check out the ingredient listing on a fresh container! Better yet, actually call Aveda for correct information. Moreover, Aveda and Origins are not sold in China due to the government requirement to test on animals. These brands do not test on animals but may use ingredients that were tested on animals in the past…this is true of most cosmetic brands as every thing was tested on animals at one point in history. This is an ugly fact that can’t be erased. Aveda has won several PETA awards for being the best cruelty free brand.

    • Reply
      Chere
      May 15, 2014 at 4:25 am

      In fact, according to Aveda’s website, the Estée Lauder Companies Inc. purchased Aveda in 1997, and it is well known that this parent company DOES test on animals. Furthermore, on their own website, Aveda say: Aveda does not conduct animal testing, nor ask others to do it on its behalf, except when it is required by law (my italics). So yes, they MAY test on animals. Moreover, they ARE indeed in China: http://www.aveda.com.hk/

      • Reply
        RK
        Jul 15, 2015 at 2:28 pm

        Actually, a product being in Hong Kong does not mean they are in China. Hong Kong is a part of China, but the laws are a little different there. Just so you know.

    • Reply
      Ashley
      Nov 24, 2015 at 9:01 pm

      Thank you for posting this, Maureen! I was just about to say the same thing about the Aveda ingredients. I work in an Aveda salon and knew for sure seeing this list of ingredients in the control paste that it must’ve been old. Just got to my salon and sure enough, there are no parabens in it. I think the author of this article should make sure all of their info is up to date before claiming false information.

      • Reply
        Ashley
        Nov 24, 2015 at 9:07 pm

        I also forgot to add that I wouldn’t assume they get their rapeseed oil from GMO sources, or palm oil that is destroying forests… Aveda works very closely with the communities that they source from and actually create jobs for the people in the areas that they work with. For example, all of their Holiday gift sets are boxed in this amazing sustainable green paper box packaging that is handmade from women in Nepal. They create thousands of jobs and income for these women by giving them the opportunity to sell the paper they already make. They make a HUGE deal and gain tons of donations from Earth Month every year and work with a different organization each year, and focus on making water available to people in need of clean water. This past year they were teamed up with the Environmental Defense Center, which does amazing things for the planet and helps protect it. You can check out more information on their website: http://www.edcnet.org

        • Reply
          Chere
          Mar 11, 2016 at 1:10 pm

          That may be true Ashley, but what their parent company, Estee Lauder, does in Israel is despicable. They are strong supporters of the oppression of the Palestinian people and illegal expansion of Israel. Estee Lauder also tests on animals and uses animal ingredients in many of their products. Supporting Aveda puts money in Estee Lauder’s pockets-that’s something an ‘ethical’ company like Aveda should have thought about before agreeing to be bought out by such a nasty parent company.

      • Reply
        Lisa Frankel
        Oct 28, 2016 at 4:52 pm

        Aveda products do contain ~silicones~which are ~not~a good ingredient for the hair and skin.

  • Reply
    The Need to Know List: Van Leeuwen’s Got a New Ice Cream Shop | Ecocult
    May 16, 2014 at 8:45 pm

    […] you’ve been duped by these five brands that claim to be eco-friendly, you are certainly not alone. Read and educate […]

  • Reply
    Idées tenues: mes envies du moment !
    Jun 13, 2015 at 11:01 am

    […] x Vivienne Westwood, en revanche, je n’arrive pas à les commander en Europe. J’ai lu quelque part que la matière utilisée dans les chaussures Melissa n’était pas autorisée à la […]

  • Reply
    Is Origins really All Natural? | Glowing Bella
    Oct 13, 2015 at 6:29 pm

    […] to EluxeMagazine, their A Perfect World Age Defense Moisturizer has the chemical “Octocrylene” which […]

  • Reply
    Patience
    Feb 26, 2016 at 2:06 pm

    well i still love melissa shoes regardless

  • Reply
    K
    Mar 11, 2016 at 6:02 am

    Aveda got back to me when I emailed for them to specify about animal testing . They don’t source or ask anyone to do on their behalf. They are also not sold in mainland China so currently they do not test . If required by law refers to if a country decided to change their law and test the product when it got there. Aveda has been the #1 pick from vegnews an all vegan publication for best hair care the last two years . Mind you Aveda doesn’t advertise in the magazine.
    As for palm oil Estée Lauder has a recent address on their site regarding it. Has a lot of good info. How and where they source from and how they are switching over to other types, etc.

    • Reply
      Erum
      Mar 11, 2016 at 1:04 pm

      It may be true that Aveda does not sell in China, but their parent company, Estee Lauder does. And Estee Lauder DOES test on animals. Not only that, the parent company is cynically and hypocritically takes women’s money to support its Pink Ribbon Campaign, whilst packing its products with some potentially carcinogenic chemicals; strongly supports the aparthied state of Israel and oppression of the Palestinian people. In short, if you buy Aveda products, or any Estee Lauder brands including MAC, Origins, Tom Ford, etc, you are indirectly supporting aparthied, war and animal testing, whether you like it or not.

  • Reply
    Beautiful Natural SkinCare _05 + _03 - Julia K Beauty
    Jun 6, 2016 at 4:40 pm

    […] this blog post from ELUXE magazine – 7 More Brands you think are Eco-Friendly but are not including info on Aveda, Khiels and […]

  • Reply
    Ainsley Williams
    Sep 9, 2016 at 8:26 am

    Can anyone advise on a makeup product that does not test on animals at any time and does not contain palm oil?
    I just purchased some Aveda, and feel a little duped (I should have researched, I know). The cleanser contains palm oil and from what I can gather they test on animals or are at least supported by Estee Lauder..and lets not start me on this company’s ethics!!

  • Reply
    Cameron
    Sep 13, 2016 at 5:34 pm

    all of Aveda’s palm oil is sustainably sourced from brazil.

  • Reply
    Why Safe Beauty Products? | LifeWithAngel.com
    Oct 7, 2016 at 7:28 pm

    […] Origins is also a company that is owned by Estée Lauder corporation, which places no value on safety when it comes to toxic chemicals. From what I could find, Origins was started strictly from an entrepreneurial opportunity of attracting more customers to Estée Lauder corporation. Please note that I am an entrepreneur, myself. But in my value system, business opportunities should be partnered with trying to make the world a better place. In my findings, Origins does not come across to me as having that altruistic agenda. 8 […]

  • Reply
    Natural Anti Pollution Beauty Products That Won't Pollute Your Skin - Eluxe Magazine
    Nov 10, 2016 at 6:14 pm

    […] Clarin’s famous anti-pollution range to Origin’s Perfect World  (which, by the way, is as far from organic as you can get), designated ‘anti-pollution’ creams can contain exactly the kinds of chemicals that […]

  • Leave a Reply