Hanging On By A Thread: Palestinian Embroidery

Palestinian embroidery is one way the world’s most displaced people are keeping their culture alive

By Thaslima Begum

Embroidery has long played a critical role in shaping historic and contemporary Palestinian culture. In pre-1948 Palestine, richly embroidered handmade garments and accessories were a proud expression of regional identity. Women created garments with a distinctive flair that immediately established the wearer’s origin. For those well-versed in the regional variations of embroidery style, pattern and colour, a quick glance was enough to determine the wearer’s region or village.

But Palestinian embroidery, and the culture that created it, is now under serious threat. Over 750,000 Palestinians were forcibly displaced from their homes in 1948. Since then, many became refugees in their own land whilst others fled to neighbouring countries including Jordan, Syria and Lebanon. Today the number of Palestinian refugees exceeds 5.9 million. And that number is set to rise even higher after the recent genocide.

The Continuing Role Of Tatreez

Still, traditional embroidery continues to serve its role in the preservation of the Palestinian identity. In every Palestinian home, you will find framed pieces of beautifully handcrafted tatreez. That is, the unification of contrasting colours and patterns, entwined with a delicate piece of thread to create a lifelong masterpiece.

Carefully curated pieces hang along dimly lit hallways; a passage that transports you to a particular moment in time. The commemoration of a dead relative, a demolished home, an uprooted olive tree. A memoir of motifs with tales told through thread – each cross-stitch tells a story.

Occupation Means No Occupations

According to the International Labour Organization, Israel’s ongoing occupation has resulted in disaster. Palestinians suffer high unemployment, insufficient income, restricted movement and the under-representation of women in the labour market.

For example, Noura Mustafa, age 23, is a fashion design graduate from Jerusalem. She explained to me that she recently lost her job after Israeli forces shut down the factory she worked in. Inspired by traditional Palestinian embroidery, Noura wants to use old cross-stitch techniques to create more contemporary designs. Her dream is to one day visit Paris and be able to showcase her cultural heritage to the world.

For women like Noura, Palestinian embroidery continues to act as an intricate expression of cultural perseverance. It’s a kind of woven communication across time. It’s a material means of preserving the rich traditions of the Palestinian people.

For a younger generation, it represents something many have never fully experienced, but desperately yearn for. That is, a true sense of belonging. At a time when the Palestinian identity hangs by a thread, the continued practice of traditional hand-stitched embroidery is both a statement of existence and an act of resistance.

Today, as we stand together #WithRefugees by honouring the courage and resilience of millions around the world, we take a look at some of our favourite ‘socially conscious’ brands that empower women through their passion for traditional Palestinian embroidery.

Brands Maintaining Palestinian Tatreez

Tatreez is not just a decorative element on clothing. It’s a reminder of the strength, perseverance, and beautiful spirit of the Palestinian people. Each stitch woven into a piece of fabric carries a story of survival, defiance, and hope for a brighter future.

Here below are brands using Palestinian embroidery. Why not support them, and allow them to help Palestinian refugees?

1. SEP Jordan

Operating from Jordan’s Gaza Refugee Camp, SEP’s hand-embroidered accessories blend hallmarks of premium Palestinian craftsmanship with high-end design.

SEP creates one-of-a-kind accessories that are distinguished by their intricate embroidery, geometric patterns and a sophisticated style that breathes new life into mainstream staples. But they don’t just make clothing for men and women! They supply gorgeous home and fashion accessories, too.

We particularly love anything that uses the “Makateeb” embroidery pattern. Coming from Gaza, in the 1800’s. “Makateeb” means “Messages”. The SEP Artists chose to embroider it in an out-of-the-box way: each Artist leaves a few crosses out, to remember all those who can no longer send their messages.

The brand donates 15€ to @thepcrf for each Makateeb keffiyeh sold, as per the Artists’ wish.

2. Dar Noora

This is another Palestinian fashion brand that focuses on embroidery and beautiful textiles.

Founder Noora Khalifeh was inspired to create Dar Noora by her father’s souvenir shop in the Old City of Al-Quds. Dar Noora is testament to the sights, sounds, and experiences Noora revelled in as a child.

Dar Noora works with local Palestinian women in Gaza, the West Bank, and Jerusalem. They all painstakingly hand stitch the needlework – and even crystals – on each piece. “There is a rich opportunity to open and expand a uniquely Palestinian fashion industry,” Noora said to Vogue Arabia. “It would counter the typically foreign-imposed model of economic development and empowerment with an organic, home-grown alternative, that stands to create jobs in which Palestinians would take great pride.”

3. All Things Mochi

Palestinian fashion designer Ayah Tabari runs Mochi. This is a well-loved label that infuses fashion with the best of traditional ethnic crafts from around the world. Of course, Ayah supports Palestinian embroidery as often as possible. For example, Mochi’s ‘Palestine’ celebrates the incredible artisanship of the region. It features contemporary shapes modified with colourful traditional embroidery.

Tabari also strives to expose, elevate, and enrich the lives of local artisans wherever she derives her inspiration, showcasing the talent and craftsmanship of the communities she works with.

4. Darzah

This is one of the most delightful Palestinian embroidery brands for shoes! They also feature a capsule collection of other Palestinian embroidered accessories. Each piece is hand-stitched by talented artisans in Hebron, one of the most oppressed parts of Palestine. And all artisans receive a fair wage. In fact, Darzah’s mission is to create economic opportunities for refugee and low-income women by connecting women around the world through the story of tatreez embroidery.

5. Symbology

An ethical luxury fashion label that fuses artisan textiles with fashion-forward designs to create inspired handmade apparel, Symbology employs women from the West Bank to apply Palestinian weaving techniques in order to preserve traditional art forms in every garment.

Symbology aims not only to produce beautiful clothing but also to preserve traditional art forms in each garment — from Indian block printing to Palestinian weaving and Native American embroidery.

They strongly believe that the wellbeing of their artisans is key to their success. That’s why they pay each of their artisans a liveable wage, allowing them to provide for their families.

 

6. Palestinian Elegance

If you want to see some of the most exceptional examples for Palestinian tatreez, look no further! Palestinian elegance offers a wide range of intricately hand-embroidered garments. These range from modern hoodies to traditional thoubs (as seen below), kaftans and hijabs. They even do bridal dresses!

The prices are also incredible, given the hours and hours of work that goes in to each piece.

Palestinian Elegance is dedicated to keeping the Palestinian culture alive by delivering the most elegant embroidery across the world. They, as Palestinians, create wonderful products that the world must truly see.

7. Palestine Shirts

The two Palestinian brothers behind this shop felt a deep calling to make a difference in the lives of their people. They launched Palestine-shirts.com as a vessel of hope, unity, and unwavering support for their homeland.

Of course, their mission goes beyond commerce. They aim to uplift the brave people who face adversity every day in their beloved homeland. Every purchase of their goods reminds Palestinians that they are not alone in their struggle. Whether you buy a watermelon tee, an embroidered purse, or a decoration for your home, you will be supporting local Palestinian artisans, allowing them to share their stories and customs with you.

Do you know of any other Palestinian embroidery brands we missed? Let us know in the comments, below. We’d love to promote them!

Main and second image: Sep Jordan