Stella McCartney is using some very interesting new conscious materials in her collections
By Chere Di Boscio
We’ve always loved Stella McCartney for her early commitment to shun fur and leather in her collections. Way before it was trendy! And she’s never been afraid to use new, innovative materials that are kinder to the planet. For example, she was an early adopter of Ecopel, Tencel, orange silk and other eco friendly fabrics.
The truth is, however, that while she did employ certain greener materials, her collections were not always made from them. Your typical nylon, polyester and elastane were frequently seen, for example. But this season, she’s upped her game, and she made her ready-to-wear collection with 91% conscious materials.
By that, the brand itself defines an item that’s made with over 50% recycled, recyclable or biodegradable fabrics as having ‘conscious materials’.
Here’s a bit more about what they are, below. But first, a bit about the collection!
A Bit About The Styles
Stella McCartney‘s most recent collection in conscious materials is a celebration of her brand’s DNA and design codes. Namely, it features classics that are crafted with wearability, desirability and sustainability in mind. As with most of her collections, Savile Row tailoring, sexy day-to-night dresses, knitwear and denim all feature. But what got many clients super excited is the comeback of the Miracle Dress.
I first saw her Parisian PR wear one of these dresses way back in 2011, and was blown away at how the dress effortlessly accentuates the female form. It does so through excellent cutting, illusion and innovation, with strategic sections of colour-blocking and mesh to sculpt a curvaceous shape.
Stella got inspiration for her signature tailoring from her mom and dad’s band in the 70’s, Wings. Linda and Paul would rock double-breasted, peak-lapel jackets and wide trousers, and Stella brings them to us this season, alongside strong-shouldered coats in double-faced responsible wool, capes and reversible British checks.
Looking for something a bit more feminine? Architecturally draped and ruched satin dresses and scarf tops sensually envelope the body. Icy, shimmery sequinned dresses transform any woman into a fairy queen.
A bit too formal for you? The McCartney collection also highlights 70s inspired jeans, and super comfy velour tracksuits.
And of course, there are bags! More of which, later. But the iconic Falabella chain weaves throughout different garments in the collection, too.
The Conscious Materials Used By Stella McCartney This Season
Ok, let’s discuss those fabrics!
Stella McCartney’s brand includes the following conscious materials:
- Organic cotton
- Deadstock that could not be used in any other way
- Recycled materials, such as ECONYL
- Regenerated materials, such as cashmere
- Low impact materials such as linen or hemp
- Low impact innovations, such as Pinatex or Bananatex
In her current collection, not everything is totally biodegradable. For example, there’s much use of deadstock polyester, PVC free sequins, and nylon made from recycled bottles, for example. But it is, of course, better than creating more demand for new materials of these types.
Now, let’s get into specifics.
Those draped dresses I mentioned are made from forest-friendly viscose, and those masculine suits are crafted from responsibly sourced RWS wool. ‘Forest friendly viscose‘ is that which comes from ‘responsibly managed, certified FSC forests in Europe or America’. In other words, new growth forests. But I have a few issues with that, which I’ll go into below.
The shirts that go with those suits are made of organic cotton. But one of my favourite innovations of the season has to be the use of Living Ink. This is a patented carbon-negative ink dye derived from spirulina blue-green algae. She uses it to excellent effect in her beautifully draped tops and dresses.
Leather Alternatives
For many who think of the McCartney brand, the first thing that comes to mind is handbags. And of course, hers are never made of leather. But this season, Stella McCartney has introduced a new bag family made of conscious materials.
Specifically, these bags are handcrafted in recycled and grape-based alternatives to leather. The grape leather comes from waste from Italian wineries.
The hardware of the bags is made of recycled brass shaped like a horse’s back, giving a nod to Stella’s lifelong passion for riding. Of course, the iconic Falabella bag returns in novel silhouettes and materials. Animal-free, cruelty-free alternatives to fur and suede bring luxuriously soft textures to Logo and Frayme bags, adorned with new charms.
There’s more vegan grape leather to be found in her bomber jackets, shrunken jackets and wide trousers, bringing an ethical edge and vintage effect.
Perhaps the conscious vegan material used by Stella McCartney that we love the most is Mirum. This is a plastic free vegan fabric made of minerals, natural rubber, and agricultural residues. It’s 100% eco friendly and easily biodegrades into the earth after use, or can be recycled. McCartney is increasingly using Mirum in her shoes and bags.
Still Not Vegan
While we do respect Stella McCartney’s choice of conscious materials, and rejection of leather and fur, there’s still a problem.
For me personally, it’s the fact that she kills insects for silk.
Yes, I know she also uses wool – namely alpaca and sheep. But I do believe those animals play an important part in the ecosystem. And Stella uses RWS wool (Responsible Wool Standard). That means the animals are allowed to roam free, and are free from pain, harm, hunger or any kind of suffering. They are generally shorn once or twice a year. This is most likely their only form of ‘stress’.
And again, personally, I think this is better than ‘vegan’ materials made of wood, such as viscose. Why? Because even when a forest is FSC certified, the fact is that whenever a tree is cut down to create viscose, a whole mini-ecosystem of animals and insects is killed or loses their home.
Of course, there is no such thing as a perfectly eco-friendly brand, or even fabric. But when a large brand such as Stella McCartney focuses their collections on conscious materials, we think this is a great way to lead by example and open the conversation on such matters.
Would you agree?
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