By Chere Di Boscio
Notoriously opaque and sometimes secretive, the diamond industry’s reputation is justifiably far from brilliant. From the very birth of the industry, it has been associated with price fixing and antitrust behaviour. But more recently, its reputation has been badly damaged as the public learn about the environmental and social implications of diamond mining.
For example? Mining for gemstones creates extreme environmental damage. This includes logging to create the mine and removing 1750 tones of earth to mine just one single 1 karat diamond. There’s also contamination resulting from leakage of the chemicals used in mining, which affects the health of the local population.
Even so-called “conflict-free” Canada diamond mines are often built in environmentally fragile ecosystems. They have significant ecological footprints, and impact badly upon the caribou, wolverine, bears, ptarmigan and fish populations. These all provide food for Aboriginal peoples. So are lab grown diamonds more ethical than these mined ones? Certainly, yes!
Blood Diamonds Are Still Bloody
And of course, most people know about “blood diamonds” by now. This is the term used to describe gems that bankrolled regional conflicts in Africa, killing tens of thousands of people in the 1990s and beyond.
The mined-diamond industry argues that the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme was established to certify the origin of rough diamonds in order to curb the trade in conflict diamonds. But this has proved to be ineffective.
The problem with the Kimberley Process is that its definition of “conflict diamond” does not include practices that consumers find troubling. For example: environmental degradation, child labour, worker exploitation and state-sanctioned violence.
As an article in TIME Magazine demonstrates, the majority of diamonds that come from African diggers aren’t registered at all. This makes it easy to sell these dirty diamonds to fund conflict by smuggling them into other nations and mixing them with ‘clean’ gems.
In short, it’s well near impossible to truly trace a diamond’s origins unless it’s certified Canadian or Australian. But even then, as mentioned, the diamond’s impact on the planet is likely to have been devastating.
So no wonder diamond sales are plummeting.
To fix this issue, some manufacturers are offering lab grown diamonds as an alternative to traditionally mined ones. But what the heck are lab grown diamonds? And are lab grown diamonds ethical? We asked Dan Decker, Customer Care Manager for diamond specialists Robbins Brothers, to shed some light.
Are Lab Grown Diamonds Ethical?
What’s the process of creating a lab grown diamond?
Most of the gem quality lab-grown diamonds use a process called Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD). A diamond seed is placed into a high pressure chamber with a plasma formed with Methane and Hydrogen, then heated to upwards of 2200 degrees Fahrenheit. The gases attach to the seed and the carbon crystal grows for up to a month (longer for higher carat weight diamonds). Once the crystal is formed, it is removed and sent to a diamond cutter to get the maximum size and brilliance possible.
How much energy does this take, compared to mined diamonds?
Lab-grown diamonds require far less energy to produce than a natural diamond. Although energy is required to produce the high pressure and temperatures required with a lab grown diamond, it is still approximately a third or less of the energy required to mine a diamond. Less energy translates to less fuel and pollution. Also, many of the lab-grown vendors are also using large amounts of solar and wind generated power.
What’s the price point difference between lab grown diamonds and mined, if any?
Whether you’re buying a pear shaped diamond ring, a princess cut, or a classic engagement ring, the same rules apply for lab grown diamonds as they do for mined ones. Basically, the price difference varies based on the market and rarity of the diamond shape and size. But all that said, in general, most lab-grown diamonds are 20% to 40% less than a similar mined diamond. So yes, there is a big difference!
Is there any difference in quality? Would a master jeweller be able to tell the difference?
Lab-grown diamonds have the same optical, physical and chemical properties as a mined diamond and a master jeweller would not be able to tell the difference.
Lab-grown diamonds should be certified and engraved so there is no confusion with a mined diamond. A lab-grown diamond can be separated from a mined diamond at a reputable grading lab by using a machine that goes down to the molecular level to see how the diamond crystal formed.
How are the workers who create lab grown diamonds treated?
These are highly specialised, highly trained technicians. Only those who are at the top of their profession are selected to design and produce synthetic diamonds. You can rest assured their pay grade is rather high!
What would you recommend to a lovestruck couple who seriously care about the planet?
I’d recommend an ethical setting as well as an ethical diamond. For example, we offer 14K recycled gold engagement rings, wedding bands and fashion jewellery. Every E3 diamond has been hand selected and grown in a laboratory and has the same exceptional colour, clarity, beauty and brilliance as mined diamonds. Alternatively, the couple could purchase a vintage ring. The ultimate in upcycling!
So, what’s the bottom line? Are lab grown diamonds ethical?
I’ll be honest with you. Recycled jewellery is by far the most ethical option for any jewellery lover. And heaven knows there are tons of existing diamonds out there already that you can buy second hand and upcycle into a new piece. But if you want a ‘new’ diamond, lab grown diamonds are far more sustainable than anything mined.
All images except main picture: Akind lab grown diamonds
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Really informative article.
Lab-grown diamonds will be the future.
They are a big disruptor, offering value for money while being sustainable.
Millennials and Gen Z are very much interested and will be the main buyers in the future
Thanks for sharing an informative blog.
The environmental damage due to mining is really a matter of concern and it can only be resolved by informing people about lab-grown diamonds.
Thanks for your comment! Agree 100%