Ditch the Backpack! Peru For Luxury Lovers

Think you need to hike with a backpack to enjoy Peru? Nope! We’ve discovered Peru for luxury lovers

By Chere Di Boscio

I remember hearing their stories. Friends returned from the Sacred Valley in Peru exuberant; cheeks flushed with health from the pure air of the Andes, eyes flashing with enthusiasm for what they’d seen.

They raved about people who spoke ancient languages. They ate strains of produce that hadn’t yet been modified into homogenous, supermarket friendly tastelessness. Ubiquitous, dewy eyed alpacas were available to pet almost anywhere. Ancient Inca Trail tours revealed a secret city hidden from time in the mists of a cloud forest at high altitude.

But it turns out all of those marvels were seen after nights spent in…hostels. Or worse, tents.

Sorry, that’s just not for me.

I’m not ashamed to admit that when I travel, I love my hot baths, liveried doormen and indulgent amenities. I want to shop for stuff that is handmade, sure. But I also want it to look like it could have come from Harrods as opposed to some hippy market. The impression I had was that all of these luxury experiences were all sorely lacking in Peru.

How wrong I was. A Peru for luxury lovers does indeed exist, as I was delighted to discover.

Image below: Central, Peru

Food For Luxury Lovers

Central, Peru

Of course, in the city of Lima, where most travellers begin, there is gourmet food galore.

There’s a reason Peruvian food is exploding on the international culinary scene. Cooks here are influenced by the Japanese and European immigrants. The result is a blend of flavours seen in no other country! Plus the local produce is not only diverse and fresh, but GMO food is banned in this nation.

In addition, what’ you’ll find is unique, be it enormous kernels of puffed maize, potatoes in dozens of colours cooked in dozens of ways, or unpronounceable, juicy fruits from the Amazon. And of course, that famously Peruvian dish, tangy ceviche, is ubiquitous.

Some of the most popular restaurants in Lima and beyond are below.

Central

Luxury lovers in Peru cannot miss Chef Virgilio Martínez’s Central. This Michelin starred restaurant offers Peruvian potatoes garnished with muña, a kind of Andean mint, or scallops, spiced with Peruvian rocoto peppers, given a surprisingly meringue-like texture.

Astrid & Gaston

This is another can’t-miss restaurant.

It’s owned by Chef Gastón Acurio and his German chocolatier wife Astrid Gutsche, who was once named the world’s best pastry chef. Housed in a spacious 17th century palacio decorated in modern, minimalist style, the eatery features an extensive tasting menu that is a tour de force as it takes diners on a brisk journey across Peru’s exhilarating history and geography.

Kjolle

If you really want to soak up the Peruvian culture via your tastebuds, then a trip to Kjoelle will present you with carefully crafted dishes using only Peruvian ingredients. To diversify the experience, ingredients are sourced from sea, lakes, mountains and Amazonian forests, highlighting the incredible culture Peru is loved for.

Maido

Looking for a unique dining experience? Maido is currently the ‘it’ restaurant to try! It beautifully blends Peruvian and Japanese cuisine resulting in a rather impressive fusion called Nikkei. The 12-course ‘Nikkei Experience’ presents dishes such as Parqacas scallops with green butter and beans, crab dishi and tapioca. Finish off your meal with an intriguing dessert of lucuma ice cream topped with soy sauce and macambo foam.

Image below: Monocromo

Shopping In Lima

peru for luxury lovers

In terms of shopping, Lima is no Paris or New York. But you can still find plenty of lush alpaca and vicuña coats and sweaters, as well as Pima cotton garments. And all for a fraction of the price you’d pay outside Peru.
Miraflores and Barranco are the best areas for quality shopping in Lima, with internationally-famous stores like Kuna boasting their largest store in Miraflores (as well as a small outlet at the airport and several in town centre) and Sol Alpaca offering gorgeous shopping experiences of quality items.
Barranco, on the other hand, is the latest gentrified suburb to pop up in Lima and swiftly regarded as the city’s trendiest address.
Here, you’ll find more distinguishing shopping choices, such as Dedalo. It’s essentially a ‘mini shopping mall’ held inside a renovated mansion, where each room is a dedicated boutique. It’s a luxury lover’s paradise in Peru!
Looking for something unique to take home with you? Alpaca throws are a popular choice, as are thick, wool rugs, woven by women in the Andes. You can find such items and much more and the design shop Monocromo.
Whether you’re looking to take home unique souvenirs or eclectic garments, Pulga is an edgy store in Lima designed by Peruvian fashionistas of the future.
Another spot to visit in Lima if you’re a fan of bold styles is Escudo. Each garment is woven and embroidered using traditional textile skills at a workshop in the Peruvian mountains, with final touches added in Lima. The fringed cotton ponchos are especially chic!

Luxury Shopping in Cusco

peru for luxury lovers

Exploring UNESCO World Heritage site Cusco reveals not only more rich history, but luxurious delights as well. There’s plenty of shiny jewellery here, fine enough to please any Spaniard searching for El Dorado.

My favourite jewellery shop in Cusco by far was Aldo & Co, where locally sourced silver and gold comprise designs mainly with an Incan vibe: think gilded pendants in the shape of the Incan cross; fierce, Incan mask brooches and tiny, delicate reproductions of Incan gods etched onto earrings. Peru for luxury lovers doesn’t get more refined than this.

Sustainable luxury fashion is also abundant, thanks to the fine fibres of the local alpaca and vicuña. The former is reminiscent of cashmere, but doesn’t heat up as much in the sun, making it perfect for the fickle Andean weather.

Vincuña, on the other hand, can only be described with metaphors involving angel’s breath or lover’s whispers: it’s softness and rarity justify its price tag (coats can go up to £50k in Europe, but prices are around half of that here). Unlike alpaca, vicuña cannot be ranched, and they are only brushed for their hair once a year.

A great place to shop for vincuña and alpaca garments in Cusco is at Centro de Textiles Tradicionales de Cusco. You’ll be able to learn more about the history of weaving in Peru and then purchase 100% alpaca clothing in their museum shop which supports local artisans. 

Another is Kuna, an award-winning Alpaca wool retailer based in Cusco.

Sleeping with Conquistadores

I couldn’t do an article on Peru for luxury lovers without mentioning hotels. However, surprisingly, there aren’t many high end hotels in Lima. There’s a serious lack of luxury chains like the Four Seasons, InterContinental. That said, I’ve heard the Country Club Hotel is the best in the city, though. And given that it’s listed as a Leading Hotel Of The World, I believe it!

I stayed at the Westin, which was alright. It was a bit far from the city’s action, and it feels a bit corporate, but at least it was comfortable, clean and elegant.

But things really levelled up when I hit Cusco.

Images below: Palacio del Inca

Luxury Hotels In Cusco

Luxury Hotels In CuscoLuxury Hotels In CuscoLuxury Hotels In Cusco

My Andean adventure, if we can call it that, began at the Palacio del Inka, a five star hotel in the heart of Cusco’s historic district. The hotel itself oozes history – it was once part of the Temple of the Sun.Constructed in 1438 by Inka Pachacuti, this Inca leader also build a number of impressive adjacent structures, which form the walls of the hotel still today.

After the Spanish Conquest, it was taken over by the bloodthirsty Pizarro family. Many of their own, personal decorative objects and furnishings remain. It’s a rare thrill to be able to say you’ve slept in the actual bedroom of a Conquistador, but that’s exactly what I did. It still contained some of his tapestries and gilded bedposts, amongst other objects. To help me get used to the high altitude, oxygen was filtered into my chamber.

Images below: Tambo del Inka

Where I Stayed In The Sacred Valley

Peru For Luxury LoversPeru For Luxury Loverstambo del inka hotel

Moving out of Cusco, the Urubamba Valley is fast becoming the home of choice for expats desirous of leaving the crowds of Mexico and Bali behind. Here, verdant valleys cut through by a raucous river recline in the warm embrace of scrub-covered mountains.

The LEEDS certified  Tambo del Inka,  a Luxury Collection Resort that lies on the banks of the Urubamba river. Here, the tree-covered grounds are abuzz with   hummingbirds and fluttering butterflies, and the inside is just as beautiful.

The Kiri bar features a 2.5 meter high backlit amber wall; the sky-high fireplace in the lobby is surrounded by local art, and the quiet, homey rooms are decked out in local kiswar wood.

My favourite part of this marvellous hotel, though, is its spa. Featuring an indigo tiled, heated infinity pool that begins indoors and stretches out to the forest beyond, it’s the perfect place to unwind after a rigorous workout at the hotel’s gym or a run around their splendid outdoor track, which followers the perimeters of the Urubamba river.

There’s also a water circuit available with hammam, Jacuzzi, thermal baths, sauna and of course, the usual range of spa treatments are on offer – as well as some specialized Andean ones, too.

Perhaps the feature that most stands out at the Tambo, is its train station. That’s right: guests here need not make their way to the crowded, chaotic train station at Ollytantambo to board for Machu Picchu; if you stay at the Tambo del Inka, the train comes right to you at a specially designated hotel stop.

That, my friends, is luxury.

 

Chere Di Boscio
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