Holy Rollers! How Mircroneedling Works to Fix Your Skin

Wondering how microneedling works to fix your skin? We asked London based expert, Dr Bruno Amendola

By Chere Di Boscio

If the idea of needles being rolled across your skin is disturbing, please stop reading here. But if the idea of renewing your skin’s surface through tiny punctures that can stimulate collagen and diminish cellulite, then read on.

I interviewed plastic surgeon and renowned skincare expert Dr Bruno Amendola at his Harley Street Clinic in London about how microneedling works to fix your skin, be it through Dermaroller or mesotherapy. These two procedures are a great solution to acne scarring, cellulite, fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation issues, and have been used by many a celebrity to achieve more glowing skin.

The procedures have become so popular as of late that some people are buying microneedling and mesotherapy devices to use at home. But is that a good idea? What’s the difference between the two? Who’s the best candidate for these devices? What do they really do? And can they actually do any damage?

Read on to see Dr Amendola’s answers.

how microneedling works

First, what’s the difference between dermarolling and mesotherapy?

Derma roller provides advanced micro-medical skin needling, which stimulates the skin to regenerate and repair itself naturally. It’s a wonderful and often very successful treatment, but requires a commitment to the treatment program – typically 4 to 6 treatments are required before seeing results, but the results can be dramatic: research has found that skin treated with four microneedling sessions, one month apart, could lead to a 400 percent increase in collagen.

Mesotherapy is the perfect alternative to help correct the skin’s loss of vital nutrients as a result of sun exposure, poor diet or circulation and hormonal changes. It involves multiple tiny injections to administer microscopic quantities of homeopathic medications, vitamins, minerals and amino acids into the skin. The treatment takes around 10 minutes and is most often pain-free. Again, like most treatments, a course is usually recommended to produce measurable results.

It’s a similar to Dermal Hydrating Treatments – although I think we can safely say that those are based on the principles of mesotherapy, rather than the other way around.

These days you can also get ‘no-needle’ mesotherapy, where the products are delivered into the skin using low frequency electric currents, but whether traditional or no-needle mesotherapy is used, the cosmetic aim is usually to replace vitamins and minerals that the skin loses as we age, although it can also be used to treat cellulite.

Tell us how microneedling works to employ the body’s defenses to improve skin?

Microneedling is a procedure that uses shallow needles to poke holes in the skin’s surface. Those holes are therapeutic as they cause a micro injury that prompts skin to stimulate collagen production, filling the lines, plumping the skin and contributing to a younger look.  

After using the dermaroller, we apply serums or deep moisturisers, as dermarolling acts as a delivery system to maximise the effects of these products. In fact, studies show these applications are absorbed much more easily and deeply by skin treated by a dermaroller than untreated skin.

However, people should avoid a dermaroller if they have a history of blood-clotting problems, or are using accutane or other medical treatments, and dermarollers should not be used on areas of skin that have eczemasunburn, or cold sores. Anywhere there are moles, skin inflammation, or rosacea should also be avoided.

There are loads of Dermarollers available online. How can we use this at home?

I advise against trying this treatment at home. The needles for home use are typically less than 1 mm, while those used by professional are typically between 1-3 mm and their purposes are distinct. It’s very important that treatments like these are done in a sterile professional environment to help achieve best results.

Who is the best candidate for Dermaroller? Mesotherapy?

I recommend Dermaroller therapy for patients looking to minimise the appearance of acne scars, sun damaged skin, stretch marks and even facial lines and wrinkles.  

In the case of mesotherapy, I would recommend this to anyone looking for light refresher and a glow to the skin. Unless you have an allergy to any of the ingredients in the products used, mesotherapy is suitable for pretty much anyone. If you have really deep lines and wrinkles, however, this probably isn’t going to produce the results you are looking for, so you might want to consider muscle relaxing injections or dermal fillers.

What exact materials are applied into the skin in mesotherapy?

It involves multiple tiny injections to administer microscopic quantities of homeopathic medications, vitamins, minerals and amino acids into the skin. The treatment takes around 10 minutes and is most often pain-free. Again like most treatments a course is usually recommended to produce measurable results.

How often do you recommend each treatment?

With both,  a course of treatments is usually recommended to produce measurable results – you won’t see the effects of the treatments straight away.

It is recommended to do a course of 5 mesotherapy treatments ( one every 2 weeks ) to start with, and after that to maintain it with a session every 3 months. I personally use Filorga mesotherapy as it is been produced in France for more than 30 years and I have great results.  

It takes up to 6 weeks for the deeper cells to migrate to the surface after a Dermaroller treatment, which is why you should leave 6 weeks between the 3 recommended Dermaroller treatments.  Unfortunately, I heard some patients have been offered Dermaroller sessions every two weeks. This is not professional at all – you need to wait!  

For more information on how microneedling works, please visit here.

Main image: dermaperfect.co.uk/mesotherapy

Chere Di Boscio
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