By Chere Di Boscio
1×1 Studio, Aurélie Fontan, Bowen Hu and Shie Lyu have been announced as the four winners of Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch Award for the Autumn Winter 2019 season, and the great news is that three of these brands are striving very hard towards sustainability. The most exciting element of this is how each designer is approaching this in their own unique way, be it through lab-grown, biological materials, upcycling, the use of biodegradable materials, zero-waste cutting, or a combination of these techniques.
Just look below to see the most sustainable fashion brands at Fashion Scout this year.
This is a luxury menswear brand created by London College of Fashion graduate Yi-Ling Kuo, who won the FDC Young Designer Award and staged her first presentation in New York in 2017. Her sustainable fashion brand uses recycled materials, specialist yarns and crafted knitting techniques in hope to raise awareness of undiscovered territories. Kuo’s AW19 collection is a study in 80s architecture, art, film and lifestyle, and a (potentially grim) reminder of society’s reliance on technology.
Based in New York city, Bowen Hu graduated from the prestigious Parsons New School for Design.
Her designs are strongly influenced by her understanding of personality and psychology, with a focus on innovative, unisex designs with a unique approach to textile use, colour, and silhouette.
Her background in textiles at Central Saint Martin is the inspiration for her most recent collection’s study on surfaces and shapes. Her designs are frequently accompanied by a background story and a musical soundtrack that she creates herself, in order to assist her audience to fully interact with the collections through the senses: by seeing, touching and listening.
Born in Paris but currently based in London, Aurelie Fontan is a London-based eponymous brand focusing on eco-friendly luxury womenswear that is produced from the latest technology and unconventional techniques. A graduate from the Edinburgh College of Art, Fontan had six nominations at Graduate Fashion Week. Her latest work how the circular economy and innovation can be easily combined in luxury RTW. Her collection features a bio-designed dress made of bacteria and fully recycled leather creations, mainly dominated by bronze and gold tones, black highlights and a shimmer, thanks to the use of upcycled materials.
The collection uses an alternative seaming method that allows different fabrics (wool, Modal, cork) to be separated when recycled. The range also emphasises bio-textiles, thanks to a lab grown fabric that is 100%
biodegradable, put together with soluble cable ties made from corn starch. The garments themselves are mainly cut with a zero-waste construction of panels layered in tessellation and the laser-cut textures are created based on a double helix DNA waste-free pattern. In short, clothing doesn’t get much more sustainable than this!
1×1 Studio, Aurélie Fontan, Bowen Hu and Shie Lyu were selected by a judging panel composed of industry experts including Martyn Roberts, Fashion Scout founder and director; Constanza Lombardi, Next Gen buyer at Browns; Kendal Robbins, senior programme manager at British Council; Lizzy Bowring, catwalk director at WGSN; and Scarlett Conlon, deputy fashion editor at The Guardian.
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