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By Chiara Spagnoli Gabardi
Chimerical: (adj): existing only as the product of unchecked imagination; fantastically visionary.
That’s the dictionary definition of the word, but chimerical also describes Barbara à Gongini’s new collection. The Nordic sustainable designer’s avant garde creations have always been unique and cutting edge, and these descriptions were further reinforced when Gongini launched her Female Collection 27 at this year’s most recent Copenhagen Fashion Week.
The collection maintains the playfulness of the label’s identity, and distinguishes itself with a dramatic mise-en-scene of upcycled and recycled garments, where geometry takes the center stage. Raw authenticity leads the collection, with an incredible choice of fabric and visible treatments that reference the modular process where craftsmanship has a strong impact on each item.
The novelty of the new collection is the way certain categories are reinvented; for example, tailored, sportswear and denim undergo a destructured transformation that makes them more androgynous. The metamorphosis is entrancing. A fashion synaesthesia takes over, with the tactility and flow of the garments are in perfect symbiosis with the wearer. The ultimate statement in ethical fashion is proclaimed through the quality of natural fabrics that enunciate a progressive new language. Art and couture weld, as the new wave created by Barbara à Gongini stands out in its full potential, visible through high quality fabric compositions, the construction of designs, as well as organic treatments and washes.
There is a wealth of organic textiles here, shifting from raw linen and natural cotton to light chiffons. Scandinavia is evoked through the shades of blades of grass that recall Nordic landscapes. Colour is muted; natural tones characterise this new collection, to enhance shape. Visible stitches, outside seams, as well as geometrical and anatomical cuts support the high-end expression of the clothing designs, and aggrandise the elegance of the materials utilised, such as jerseys, silk, leather and linen.
Be prepared for the new year, when Barbara à Gongini’s chimerical collection will be finally be available to the public.